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dinsdag 11 juni 2013

Hel & Verdoemenis Misto (De Molen)

The Constant Reader may recall that I am far from impartial where Dutch brewery De Molen is concerned. In fact, my very first encounter with them was in the form of that ridiculously redefining imperial stout of theirs, the Hel&Verdoemenis.

Since this brew is so damn good, the De Molen guys have used it as a basis for some of their superlative barrel aged beers, of which the Misto is only one example.

Proving internet memes, as well as the expression "only one", sadly lacking in both truth and bearing.
The Misto, then.

Told you I was doing all of this for science, didn't I?

There's that lusciously thick pour which so defines imperial stouts. The sheer majesty of it, the anticipatory glug of a dense, chewy brew hitting the glass. What little tan head it has is swiftly pulled under into the darkness below.

In the nose is that intensely chocolatey, just-barely-registrable coffee buzz which made me go wow the first time I had the basic H&V. Ladled gently in between are rich, fruity overtones, lifting up the brew and making it a bit more playful. A dainty whiff of vanilla maybe, hidden by the present-but-restrained boozy undercurrent of bourbon. I say boozy, but the alcohol is very low-level, and nowhere near the saturnine extravaganza you can expect from an American brew of similar caliber.

And when the brew hits the tongue, what else is there to say but oh my goodness? Hell and effing Damnation indeed, this brew is wickedly divine, with just enough bourbon in there to impart upon an already mind-bogglingly tasty base beer an expansive quality, making it throb across the palate like a wanton seductress. Velvet and smooth, warm yet not scorchingly hot, with wood tones, a heady bourbon presence just bordering on boozy, dark dark chocolate and a creamy, dessert-like ooze which makes the beer stick to the back of the teeth in an altogether pleasant ride.
It's easy to miss but there's actually quite a bit of carbonation going on here, hiding as a fine prickling sensation on the tongue, teasing a bit more fire from the gentle booze from the Wild Turkey.

A medium-long aftertaste, with sticky, chewy sweetness of malt and liquor pairing off perfectly with the gentle bitterness of subdued hops and roast malt. Don't expect the everlasting, all-night-and-straight-into-next-morning lingering of present-day USA barrel aged brews; this is actually a beer you can have seconds of, provided someone's willing to drive you home.

Speaking of bourbon: I happen to have, stored away in the safety of my cellar's darkest recesses, a bottle of Hel&Verdoemenis Wild Turkey. I had to do some research, however limited, on the Misto to find out this one also involves Wild Turkey. What I'm guessing (and I really wish Menno & crew would be more centrally informative on these matters) is that the Misto is actually blended with Wild Turkey and then aged on new barrels (thank you ratebeer), while the Wild Turkey is probably aged on used (and probably not-entirely-dry) barrels wherein once resided the Wild Turkey itself. Curious as to how different that one will turn out.

But the Misto...ah the Misto. I could have this beer every night for the rest of my life and not feel sad about all the other brews I was missing out on. Everything about this beer is just perfectly measured out, perfectly and lovingly executed, and perfectly drinkable. There's nothing extreme about this beer, and anyone shaking their heads in disapproval of current trends where every next beer is brewed bigger and bolder and heavier and boozier than the other will be pleased to find that the guys at De Molen know exactly where to stop. This is the dividing line. This is where beer is still unquestionably beer, and points elegantly in both directions.

Deasil, it says, lie normal beers. Beers perhaps too unassuming which are perfecly okay, but which, frankly put, are not this beer.
And widdershins, it says whilst beckoning us on, lie the super beers. Beers which oft belie their humble origins, and which, when all it said and told, are not this beer.

For those in need of directions

De Molen crew, here's to your good health, and to the love your pour into each bottle.

Beer: Hel&Verdoemenis Misto
Brewery: De Molen
Style: Blended Barrel Aged Imperial Stout (Wild Turkey)
ABV: 11%
EBU: 102
EBC: 297
Served: 330ml bottle

Oh.
A side note, just to clear the air. Don't mistake the above for an unwarranted critique on either deasil or widdershins beers. There are excellent beers to be found on both sides of the dividing line, as well as crap brew pretending to be beer. There's a time and place for decent-and-better beers from either side.
But, whichever beer we're talking about, it's not this beer.

Greetz

Jo

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