The end of September means several things and one of them is Borefts.
Every year, a choice selection of brewers from across Europe gathers for what many consider to be the definitive beer festival. Last year was my first time attending, and there was little that could stop me from attending again this year. Joined by BeerBert and fellow-homebrewer Frank, we set out on the last sunny Saturday morning of September, in high spirits and more than a little excited(*) already.
*) "excited" was redefined by Toby later on during the day, but we weren't excited in that way yet.
No less than 19 brewers had set up their stalls on the premises of De Molen, Bodegraven's most prominent landmark as well as the site of the eponymous(*) brewery.
*) as one attendee remarked: "Choosing a name for your brewery is easy if you have this kind of setting. I mean, "De Ark" would have been stupid, right?"
Närke were present again with a number of traditional and/or herbal beers. I started off the proceedings with a Peated Viking, which was remarkably easy for such a boldly named beer. Peat and smoke, sure, but nothing as bold or overstated as you'd expect from a bog-flavoured norseman. BeerBert went for the moose-grass-based Äljäjl, which highlighted Närke's signature: another seemingly easy brew, which nonetheless displayed its intriguingly subdued flavour profile in its late finish. Frank, who had a cold, decided straight away to forego all subtlety and dove into the Kaggen! Raspberry Stormaktsporter. The Kaggen in its basic version is one of those White Whale brews which will set you back a good 300 bucks (or the equivalent thereof in other rare brews) if purchased through the Internet Beer Market. Which is why I've yet to taste it, but was thrilled to find the raspberry version here at Borefts.
I loved the smell of this beer, which was everything a porter should ever smell like and more. In the taste, the raspberry both added and subtracted from the overall enjoyment of it. While the idea of red fruit in porters is sound and sensible, it's an idea that's often let me down, and here again, I've the impression the Kaggen simply doesn't need the extra raspberry. That being said: excellent porter, and decidedly different from the other brews Närke had to offer.
So yes, I pushed my homebrew sahti onto all and any unsuspecting brewer and forced some compliments out of them. Most were actually very civil and polite about the whole thing. None begged for second servings, though.
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| Pic not mine. |
*) "excited" was redefined by Toby later on during the day, but we weren't excited in that way yet.
No less than 19 brewers had set up their stalls on the premises of De Molen, Bodegraven's most prominent landmark as well as the site of the eponymous(*) brewery.
*) as one attendee remarked: "Choosing a name for your brewery is easy if you have this kind of setting. I mean, "De Ark" would have been stupid, right?"
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| This is how you use the number nineteen and be meaningful, Steve. |
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| ...with raspberries, and sans the shear-like jaws. |
Going back for seconds, I had the Tanngnjost&Tanngrisnir , a traditional ale using beech-smoked malt and juniper-infused mash water. Much like the Peated Viking, this was a wonderfully smooth smoked brew, with a hint of the junipers coming through. Going by the name and the ratebeer description, I'd hazard this was actually a bock-beer (and hence a lager) but brewer HG Wiktorsson claimed it to be fermented with ale yeast.
Oh and HG & crew liked my Sahti!
Interlude
I recently brewed Sahti and what better opportunity for me to get me some credible feedback than to bring along a half-gallon growler for the brewers at Borefts to sample?
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| Let the brewers decide. |
For future reference, I present to you the Borefts Attending Brewers' Sahti Appreciation Scale (BABSAS, trademark pending).
1 - spat out in disgust
2 - made the "blech" face
3 - made the puckering "eww what's this oh wait I think I got it down" face
4 - made the "meh" face
5 - politely went "Hm.", then handed back the glass and pretended none of this just happened
6 - arched one eyebrow and expressed mild approval
7 - "It's not shit"
8 - genuinely seemed to like it
9 - genuinely seemed to like it and/or kept the glass and/or was actually Scandinavian
10 - Menno. Not necessarily the rating you want though.
For individual brewer's BABSAS ratings, scroll way way down.
Interlude about done now
With the Sahti rapidly warming up, I hurried over to Brekeriet's stall, where I wheedled more affirmations of "uhuh it's not bad" out of the attending brew-crew, after which I helped myself to a glass of Brunette, a sour brown, with a strong lactic sourness, typical of culture-inoculated sour ales, combined with a slumbering "brown" aroma of toffee and toasted biscuits. The brewers seemed like an ambitious bunch, and my interest is piqued. Keeping an eye open for them.
BeerBert meanwhile had helped himself to a glass of Saison L'Ete from Burning Sky. Interesting brewery, who seem to've embraced the farmhouse idea of the saison style quite intimately. They brew quite a few saisons, and they brew 'em in a barn. What's not to love about these guys? The Saison L'Ete was a nice and summery brew, with a hint of lemony freshness. Light and quenching, and a very OK brew.
Much much later in the evening, I finished off the festival with a glass of their Saison à la Provision which was soured with Lacto and aged on Bordeaux barrels. I love the idea (and "historical correctness") of sour saison, and this one was an excellent execution of the idea: fresh, tart, lingering, and just complex enough to keep wanting more. Definitely a brewery I want to taste more of, and I think I got a bit teary when lamenting the irony of UK brewers doing more, better and more inventive saison brewing than most of Wallonia combined.
Joined by two mates and their spouses, beers started following one another in quick succession so pardon me if memory fails and/or I somehow lost track of the exact sequence of choice beers.
Frank (who's a sourhead and no jokes there please) had some two-weeks-old Kriek by Cantillon. I love how a true, proper kriek manages to blend all the flavours of the old and new lambiek together with the fruits and pips of the cherries. Tart and sour, but it's a more mature, stately sourness than what you'll find in cultured sour ales.
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| Culture. Not culture. |
Sour, you say? The Kernel brought an absolutely outstanding Raspberry sour, brimming with juicy raspberry goodness, and solid, tart-but-not-puckering sourness underneath. Quite spectacular, and obviously something they're very proud of.
Another sour Frank came up with is Tilquin's Meerts, a Radler(*)-meerts hybrid which was very refreshing and yet slightly chewy. No idea how representative this is of the historic meerts style, but I'm intrigued.
Interlude part deux
*) Radler.
Ok.
Sit down, draw a deep breath, relax your mind and let go of your preconceptions. Which I share, for that matter.
Radler isn't beer.
At best, Radler has beer in it, but not much, and mostly not very good beer to begin with.
Radler is the recreational cyclist's answer to Bacardi Breezer. It's a low-abv alco-pop, based on beer instead of spirits. It's a bit of beer, with a lot of lemonade, and tastes like soda pop poured in a used beer glass. It's mankind's way of flipping the bird to the idea that you can't do sports and drink beer and every time you order one in a bar or pub, god kills a puppy.
Better now?
Every year, Menno challenges the attending brewers to brew "something else". Something inventive or clever or far-fetched or not-done. Something with which they can demonstrate their Craft. Achievement unlocked, that kind of thing.
This year (however did you guess?) the challenge was Radler. Needless to say (but I'm sayin' anyway) brewers and attendees took the idea and ran with it, resulting in everything from The Kernel's 1.5% ABV Lime Radler to De Molen's 11.8% "Imperial" Radler with Amarena, and from Toccalmato's on-the-spot infusions with lemon, over Brekeriet's rhubarb sour all the way to Het Uiltje's G&T infused radler.
Now quit yer whinin'.
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| ...and have a Radler. |
Interlude's over
BeerBert, who loves his blacks and no that's not a poltically incorrect statement at all thank you very much, brought over a rapid succession of impy stouts and the likes. Magic Rock's BA Bearded Lady was nice and smooth, and also not a radler, and Het Uiltje's Meneer de Uil Bowmore was very, very Bowmore-ish, which, while a good thing in my opinion, was not to everyone's taste: big and ashy and very assertive.
From there on, things escalated, and some of the more heavy-handed brews entered into the picture. De Molen are known for plus-size brews, and we had the intriguing Vlees&Bloed, with fleur de sel, habanero and heather honey. Immensely rewarding brew: full and fleshy, with none of the components ever outshining the other: a pinch of salt to fatten the body, a meaty undercurrent of habaneros and just enough honey to make it luxurious. A meal, including appetisers and desserts, in a glass.
The Hel&Verdoemenis Wild Turkey Eisbock is nothing shy of a miracle. The WT edition of the H&V is already immensely drinkable, but the eisbock version is ridiculously delicious, and dangerously drinkable at 20%ABV. Definitely one of the best eisbocks I ever tasted.
For comparison's sake, I hauled ass to Emelisse's stall and fetched me a sample of their XXV, a 25% ABV eisbocked black&tan, which, while still an impressive beast of a brew, was really really boozy and a bit of a throat burner. Much more macho than the WT H&V.
The Hel&Verdoemenis Wild Turkey Eisbock is nothing shy of a miracle. The WT edition of the H&V is already immensely drinkable, but the eisbock version is ridiculously delicious, and dangerously drinkable at 20%ABV. Definitely one of the best eisbocks I ever tasted.
For comparison's sake, I hauled ass to Emelisse's stall and fetched me a sample of their XXV, a 25% ABV eisbocked black&tan, which, while still an impressive beast of a brew, was really really boozy and a bit of a throat burner. Much more macho than the WT H&V.
One of the ladies present asked me (of all people) what she should have, and since she apologetically confirmed the stereotype that ladies prefer sweet beers, and expressed an interest in barley wines, I pointed her to De Molen's stall again, with instructions to order the Prachtig&Machtig, a collaboration brew with Emelisse. While none of our group really likes barley wines, this one was unanimously declared spectactular. Yes, it's sweet, but heavens does it have oodles of flavour as well! It's really one of those beers that make you reconsider your opinions and prejudices, and again confirms the fact that Kees & Menno have their shit together.
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| Not an actual picture of Menno&Kees' shit. |
Further descent into stout madness yielded Emelisse's Aceto Balsamico, which was interesting but kinda confirmed my suspicion that acetic flavour work well in salads and British chips, but not so much in beer.
Last year's wonderboys Laugar were back with their awesome Aupa Tovarish which once again did not disappoint. Their Aizkolari Crowbeer however was not something we were fond of: a "Belgian strong ale" which reminded me a bit of Delirium Tremens in its expressive yeastiness. Quite likely a good example of the style, but nonetheless a style I don't quite fancy.
Hell & Zombier, a collab brew between De Molen and brewer-beerseller Zombier, was a huge coffee bomb, and possibly one of the most intensely coffee-flavoured coffee stouts I have ever tasted.
Närke's Skvat Galen was brought out at some point, re-emphasising the simple fact that I don't really like gruit beers, and that perhaps the sweet gale is partly to blame for that. Objectively, this was a good example of a gruit/herb beer, but subjectively, I was put off by the combination of sweet/malty and the herbal taste of the gale.
Last year's wonderboys Laugar were back with their awesome Aupa Tovarish which once again did not disappoint. Their Aizkolari Crowbeer however was not something we were fond of: a "Belgian strong ale" which reminded me a bit of Delirium Tremens in its expressive yeastiness. Quite likely a good example of the style, but nonetheless a style I don't quite fancy.
Hell & Zombier, a collab brew between De Molen and brewer-beerseller Zombier, was a huge coffee bomb, and possibly one of the most intensely coffee-flavoured coffee stouts I have ever tasted.
Närke's Skvat Galen was brought out at some point, re-emphasising the simple fact that I don't really like gruit beers, and that perhaps the sweet gale is partly to blame for that. Objectively, this was a good example of a gruit/herb beer, but subjectively, I was put off by the combination of sweet/malty and the herbal taste of the gale.
One thing which struck me quite a few times: IPAs and festivals are not the insta-win I'd pictured them to be. Sure, the hops will clamorously announce themselves, no matter what (or how much) you've tasted before, but all the subtlety and, well, greatness layered on by all that hoppiness sort of blends together in a uniform, nondescript "yeah it's an IPA" kinda way.
From Magic Rock's Cannonball all the way to The Kernel's IPA (I forget but I though it was Simcoe, Columbus and something else): none of them were allowed to shine in the presence of all these other flavours.
I'm sure somewhere out there, a self-help guide(*) exists which lines all these things out, but I suspect next time I'd better start with IPAs, and go from there, rather than mix them between the lot as I go along.
From Magic Rock's Cannonball all the way to The Kernel's IPA (I forget but I though it was Simcoe, Columbus and something else): none of them were allowed to shine in the presence of all these other flavours.
I'm sure somewhere out there, a self-help guide(*) exists which lines all these things out, but I suspect next time I'd better start with IPAs, and go from there, rather than mix them between the lot as I go along.
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| *) Oh look. It does. |
In spite of my lack of appreciation for the IPAs on offer, a couple of exceptional ales did bring a smile to my face. The Kernel brought a truly spectactular Columbus pale ale which somehow made much more of an impression that their IPA. Columbus is a great hops even by its lonely self, and this beer proved both that, and the fact that yes, hoppy beers can stand up to the onslaught of bizarre and strong flavours of such a festival setting.
The Kernel guys once again proved themselves to be amiable fellows, brimming with enthusiasm and a love for brewing, beer and consumers alike. Also, Toby took great care to explain to me the difference between being drunk(*) and "so excited I really need to hold on to this tent pole" which I'm sure will be a great leverage tool in future discussions with him.
The Kernel guys once again proved themselves to be amiable fellows, brimming with enthusiasm and a love for brewing, beer and consumers alike. Also, Toby took great care to explain to me the difference between being drunk(*) and "so excited I really need to hold on to this tent pole" which I'm sure will be a great leverage tool in future discussions with him.
*) all jest and slander aside, he wasn't drunk. No really he wasn't. Just very excited.
Another IPA-related brew which did stand out was a trio of Japanese fruit-brews brought along by Evil Twin. I had the Femme Yuzu, an all-Brett IPA, flavoured with yuzu juice.
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| Lemon-quince hybrid basterdised by pumpkin mongrel. Yummy. |
Not an IPA in the traditional sense at all (De Molen brought a series of fruit-based IPAs as well so maybe this really is the future of IPA), this reminded me more of a fruit-based sour saison. Very fresh and tart, refreshing and slightly puckering, but really really tasty. Frank had their Nomad Weisse which was likewise fresh and tart, but didn't really make much of an impression.
Last in line of the new wave of British ales was the most unassuming brew of the festival. Seemingly lost between the huge 30-tap stall of De Molen and Burning Sky's huge horizontal plywood menu-counter, was Gadds' Ramsgate Brewery. Almost apologetically, the couple manning the tap (sorry folks, I missed your names) explained how they brew classic UK ales (including a boring old brown), and that they'd only brought their Green Hop Ale which was all about fresh green East Kent Goldings hops. The end of September is a great time to be serving fresh hops beers, even if perhaps the greenness of the hops only arguably adds to the flavour of the beer. This one tasted clearly of EKG, which happens to be one of my favourite hops, given its ability to outshine even the most clamorously balls-to-the-wall hops from the States, when used properly. While I liked the Green Hop Ale, it suffered a bit from non-optimal cask conditions (which they warned me about in advance and apologised for profusely): it was flat, even beyond the stereotype of UK-beer-as-seen-by-continentals, and the aromas were decidedly unconventional (read: normal) for a festival like Borefts. I felt for them, as they'd clearly made an effort to brew a very solid ESB, which, sadly, is easy to dismiss out of hand when overshadowed by such noisy neighbours.
Kudos for bringing the only "normal" beer to the festival, extra kudos for using plain old EKG, even more kudos for bringing a real cask and bonus kudos for scoring 9 on the BABSAS and not even being vaguely Scandinavian.
What else? What else....memory is a fickle thing once Borefts reaches the 5:00 PM mark, but I distinctly remember Rocket Brewing's Supernova, a Flemish Brown which tasted (I suspect unintentionally) like pork sausage.
Oh and I had my first ever Berliner Weisse, expertly brewed and poured by Brasserie du Mont Salève. Theirs was perhaps the most varied collection of brews (a smoked IPA! a BA rye porter! a gentian gruit!), and since I have a medical condition called chronic indeciciveness, I let the head brewer decide. Their Berliner weisse really blew me away, and was perhaps the singlemost outstanding(*) brew of the festival as far as I'm concerned. Brewed with a sour mash comprising the totality of the mashed grains, this beer was fresh and lactic, with a vast array of subtle wild flavours lurking underneath the tartness. It reminded me a lot of my own attempt at brewing a sour gose (brewsflash imminent), albeit much more skillfully executed than my own sour wort experiment. Duh.
Really, if I could take home one single brew of this festival, it would be this one. The Kernel's Raspberry sour is a close second.
Oh and I had my first ever Berliner Weisse, expertly brewed and poured by Brasserie du Mont Salève. Theirs was perhaps the most varied collection of brews (a smoked IPA! a BA rye porter! a gentian gruit!), and since I have a medical condition called chronic indeciciveness, I let the head brewer decide. Their Berliner weisse really blew me away, and was perhaps the singlemost outstanding(*) brew of the festival as far as I'm concerned. Brewed with a sour mash comprising the totality of the mashed grains, this beer was fresh and lactic, with a vast array of subtle wild flavours lurking underneath the tartness. It reminded me a lot of my own attempt at brewing a sour gose (brewsflash imminent), albeit much more skillfully executed than my own sour wort experiment. Duh.
Really, if I could take home one single brew of this festival, it would be this one. The Kernel's Raspberry sour is a close second.
*) the concept of outstanding requires a new definition when mentioned in the context of Borefts. Perhaps it means nothing more than "I can still taste it, in a good way, even though I think fondly of all those other brews"
Borefts 2014 was a blast. We had great weather, great fun and great beers. The community spirit, the sharing vibe and the ceaseless "What's that you're having ooh and have a sip of this", all of that and more is what makes me yearn for the last weekend of September 2015 already.
Until then,
Greetz
Jo
Oh. Almost forgot.
Until then,
Greetz
Jo
Oh. Almost forgot.
For future reference and scientific purposes manifold, here are the individual brewers' BABSAS ratings. Some were lucky and escaped the social pressure of having to taste it, but they won't get away so easily next time.
Närke crew: 9
Brekeriet boys: 5 with a hint of 9
Burning Sky: 9 and are as Scandinavian as Ploughman's Lunch. So yay.
Emelisse: 6 and added "no really"
The Kernel: 7 but Evin actually ditched whatever he was having at the time in favour of an entire glass of mine yay!
Mont Salève: 5 mais peut-être j'avais mal expliqué
De Bierderie(°): 8 and gave me a bottle of Mirjam in exchange
Menno: 10 which is somehow not as impressive as it looks
Ah...Menno.
Menno took a sip, and proclaimed "Ah that's not Sahti" with his lips still wet. Too little juniper character, too much yeast. All true, and even though he's hardly Finnish, I reckon he was, like myself, disappointed by the lack of oomph of this brew. Knowing Menno's brews, any Sahti coming his way would definitely have to be more, well, more in order to impress(*). It needs more of the essence of Sahti, and definitely could use some exaggeration. Ah well...there's always next time.
Also, this means the BABSAS is the only scientific scale where 10 means both "Menno approves" and "Menno was not impressed". In a weird way, that's all the encouragement this particular homebrewer needs at the moment.
Also, this means the BABSAS is the only scientific scale where 10 means both "Menno approves" and "Menno was not impressed". In a weird way, that's all the encouragement this particular homebrewer needs at the moment.
*) Mind, my goal was not to impress but yeah, impressing Menno would have been great.
°) more news on Mirjam later but thanks to Dagmar for her ceaseless PR endeavours. May they odds be ever in your favour.
°) more news on Mirjam later but thanks to Dagmar for her ceaseless PR endeavours. May they odds be ever in your favour.
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